FABLED LAND OF LO, THE KINGDOM OF MUSTANG A TREK BEYOND THE DHAULAGIRI & ANNAPURNA HIMALS

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    Trip Description & Itinerary:

    September – October 2008 Version 21 February 2008

    Highlights

    • Fabled Land of Lo, the region of Upper Mustang, an area surrounded on three sides by Tibet.
    • Fascinating earth-colored medieval villages, forgotten fortresses, ancient palaces, Buddhist temples.
    • Moonscape of wind-swept terraces, eroded ridges, huge alluvial fans, dramatic desert and mountain scenery!
    • A land isolated from the changes around them, a rare opportunity to see ancient Tibetan culture!

    Background

    In late March 1992, the first foreign trekking groups entered the once forbidden, mysterious region of Upper

    of trekkers allowed to enter is very closely controlled by the government of Nepal. The parched, brilliantly hued but barren landscape of Mustang bears more relation to the interior Tibetan plateau than it does to Nepal. Alluvial fans, jutting sandstone ridges, abandoned glacial moraines, broad sandy terraces combine to produce a moonscape of mauvNepal2e, burnt sienna, grays and amber. The culture of Mustang is distinctly Tibetan. Ancient monasteries survive along with walled villages of crumbling earth houses and abandoned fortresses. Locals toil the dusty fields and tend their flocks. The capital of this once autonomous state is Lo Manthang, situated at 12, 400 feet and several days walk from Jomosom on the upper reaches of the Kali Gandaki valley.

    Manjushree Thapa wrote “Lo has always been an enigma within Nepali borders.” Until Ame Pal, a local chieftain, unified the various principalities of the area in the 1830's, Mustang belonged to western Tibet. The kingdom remained independent until the end of the 18th century when warriors from Jumla marched across Dolpo and conquered Lo. With the Ghorkali's capture of Jumla in 1850, Lo came under Nepali suzerainty. The Mustang kings, descendants of Ame Pal, Lo

    Manthang Courtesy G Roberts were allowed to keep the title of “raja” although their functions were largely ceremonial. Upper Mustang has been

    closed off from the south and, obviously, the north. Its special geographicalNepal3 situation, of being surrounded on three

    sides by Tibet, made upper Mustang the ideal base for the Tibetan resistance to carry out operations against the Chinese. It is also the escape route for the Kharmapa who fled Tibet a few years back. Therefore, under pressure from Beijing, Kathmandu disbanded the Tibetan-freedom guerrillas and the government tightly controls entrance to upper Mustang.

    From November through March, because of the snow and intense cold, most of the local populace of Mustang departs on trading expeditions; the remaining months (April through October) are the most suitable for travel and the most ideal times to enter Lo are in late spring or early autumn . Mustang is usually dry and the skies are blue at this time of year. From mid-June onward, the land becomes greener with vegetation, but brief rainstorms become more likely as the monsoon progresses. As the monsoon tapers off in September the fields begin to yellow and the climate

    chills. The intense storms so often seen in the lower foothills are absent because the Land of Lo is largely sheltered from the rains by the Himalayas.

    Itinerary

    (Based on Stan Armington’s book on Mustang)

    Lo Manthang Valley Courtesy G Roberts

    Particulars

    Because of the altitude and potential cold, windy weather, this is not a trek to be taken lightly and you should be in good physical shape. Lo Manthang is dry and sunny, but also, high, cold, and windy. Daytime temperatures usually are in the 50s or 60s, but at night it may fall to below freezing. Cold snaps may occur lowering the temperature further. The daily stages are relatively easy. Dry and dusty conditions can be expected. The combination of cool temperatures and wind may produce notable chill factors. Trekking time averages 4 to 7 hours a day and the trail gradients are low (usually less than 1,000-meters per day). There are a few minor passes to traverse, but these crossings are comparatively low (13,000 feet) and easy by Himalayan standards.

    It is not possible to fly directly to Jomsom from Kathmandu and an overnight must be spent in Pokhara from which you mad add extra days for short walks into the hills. The transition from the streams, forests, and green fertile fields surrounding Pokhara into the treeless country of the high Tibetan plateau and the parched windy desert of the upper Gandaki is extremely dramatic but does provide a profound illustration of the extreme remoteness and special isolation of Mustang.

    Nepal4Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu. Transfer to Malla Hotel. Trek briefing. Overnight at hotel on bed and breakfast basis .

    Day 02: Ibex colleagues will obtain your permits today. Opportunity for sightseeing in and around Kathmandu. Overnight Malla Hotel.

    Day 03: Transferto airport. Flight to Pokhara. Transfer to Pokhara hotel. Opportunity to sightsee in Pokhara. Overnight at HotelShangrila Village on half board.

    Day 04: Transfer to airport. Flight to Jomsom with dramatic views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Ranges enroute. Begin trek. All meals included while on trek. Short walk to Kagbeni.

    * It’s easy to add an extra day at this point for acclimatization. You could walk to Marpha, a very tidy, clean village with flagstone streets and narrow alleys, a center for agricultural products (local apples, apricots and peaches) and wine or you could take an extra day from Kagbeni to the pilgrimage site at Muktinath.

    Day 05: Kagbeni to Chele. 5-6 hours, 430m ascent, 170m descent The police checkpost at the northern end of the village is the beginning of the 'Restricted Area of Upper Mustang’ for which you must have the correct permit and a liaison officer. Your sirdar (head man) will complete formalities here before you may enter this long-forbidden region of Nepal. There are two routes up the Kali Gandaki from here, either a high trail or a riverbank route depending on the height of the river.

    Along the Riverbed In the dry season, it is possible to trek the entire route up the river along the sand and gravel of the riverbed. This will require at least two, and perhaps many, fords of the several channels of the meandering Kali Gandaki. When Lo people bring their horses to Kagbeni, they travel straight down the centre of the river valley, jumping onto the backs of their horses whenever it is necessary cross the river. If you don't have a riding horse available, you'll have to wade the river. Tevas or other sandals with straps are essential for this undertaking. Much of the trek up the riverbed is on rounded river boulders that make walking difficult.

    The high route The high route takes a bit longer and involves a fair amount of climbing, but it offers a visit to the picturesque village of Tangbe at 3030m. From Kagbeni the trail climbs immediately to a ridge marked by a small stone chorten, then descends and climbs over another ridge. After a few more ups and down the trail climbs to a plateau at 3040m, then drops steeply into a dry riverbed. It's then a short climb to Tangbe. The town is a labyrinth of narrow alleys among whitewashed houses, fields of buckwheat, barley and wheat and apple orchards. Below town is a fortress and a Nyingma gompa. From this vantage point Nilgiri peak

    Courtesy Leo Murray dominates the southern skyline. The village consists of three

    whitewashed stone houses and narrow alleyways. The gompa is above the Nepal5southernmost settlement and there are some broken castle walls on the surrounding cliffs. Beyond this point the trek leaves the Kali Gandaki Valley and climbs steeply up a rocky gully to Chele at 3070m. This small village boasts Upper Mustang's first hotel, the {Deuralee}, and two small shops. Since you will now be in a region of Tibetan influence, you will see ferocious Tibetan mastiff dogs. Most are chained to houses and their threats are confined to low-pitched barks, but do not treat these animals lightly. The trading patterns also change in Lo. Despite the ever-changing political situation, Chinese goods still make their way into Lo. There is more packaged Chinese food available than Nepali or Indian food.

    Day 06: Chele to Geling, 7 - 8 hours, 1060m ascent, 590m descent The climb from Chele is up a steep spur to a cairn and a view of Ghyakar across a huge canyon. The trail is a long, steep, treeless, waterless slog - switchbacking up the side of a spectacular steep canyon, then traversing to a cairn marking the Chele La at 3600m. After crossing the ridge the trail enters a large side valley and makes a long gradual descent to Samar, surrounded by a grove of poplar trees at 3590m. In the valley below are the fields of Samar, enclosed by a long wall. The trail climbs above Samar to a ridge, descends steeply to a stream, climbs back to a chorten painted in red, black, yellow and white - all pigments made from local rocks. The trail goes into another valley filled with stumps of juniper trees that have been harvested for firewood, crosses a stream and climbs up to the Bhena La at 3830m and drops gently to the three houses of Bhena (3810m). The route skirts a gorge, crosses a stream and climbs slightly to yet another pass, the Yamdo La at 3980m, descend steeply then follow a ridge as it descends to the settlement of Shyangmochen. Afer that, it's a short gentle climb to the Shyangmochen La at 3820m where the route enters another huge east-west valley. Descend to the picturesque village of Geling with its poplar trees and extensive fields of barley at 3540m. A large red gompa overlooks the whitewashed houses scattered around the valley.

    Day 07: Geling to Charang, 6 - 7 hours, 890m ascent, 870m descent The trail from Geling turns westward and climbs gently through fields up the centre of the valley, passing below Tama Gaon and its imposing chorten. Turning north, the direct trail becomes an unrelenting climb across the head of the valley to the Nyi La at 3985m. The Nyi La is the southern boundary of Lo itself. The descent from the pass is gentle for about 45 minutes to the Ghemi La, a cairn on a ridgetop about 45 minutes below the pass. The trail then drops steeply to Ghemi at 3550m. Ghemi is a large village of whitewashed houses surrounded by hectares and hectares of fields. About half of the fields are barren because of problems with the irrigation system. The Charang trail descends below the blue, grey and red cliffs across the valley to a steel bridge across the Tangmar Chu, then climbs past what is perhaps the longest and most spectacular stretch of mani wall in Nepal. Beyond the mani wall the route climbs a rocky gully, then traverses to the Choya La at 3870m. Once over the pass the route makes a long gentle descent past a big prayer flag then wanders across fields to Charang at 3560m. Charang is a maze of fields, willow trees and houses separated by stone walls at the top of the large Charang Chu canyon. The huge five-storey white dzong (Tibetan-style fortress) and red gompa are perched on the edge of the Kali Gandaki Gorge at the eastern end of the village.

    Day 08: Charang to Lo Manthang, 4 - 5 hours, 450m ascent, 200m descent The trail descends about 125m from Charang, crosses the Charang Chu and climbs steeply up a rocky trail to a cairn on a ridge opposite the village at 3580m, then enters the Tholung Valley. The trail turns north and climbs gently to a large isolated chorten that marks the boundary between Charang and Lo. Still climbing gently, the trail crosses a stream, then becomes a grand wide thoroughfare travelling across a desert-like landscape painted in every hue of grey and yellow. Finally, from the Lo La at 3950m, there is a view of the walled city of Lo.

    A short descent leads onto the 'plain of aspiration', then the trail crosses a stream and climbs up onto the plateau of Lo Manthang itself at 3810m. The wall of Lo Manthang was once more imposing than it is now. In the mid1980s the raja sold much of the land surrounding the city; as a result, numerous stables, houses and stone-walled fields now adjoin the wall. Nothing will grow in this arid land without irrigation.

    Days 09 & 10: Lo Manthang There are four major temples within the city walls. Each of these buildings is locked. The villagers feel it necessary to control access to the temples; the caretaker and the key are available only at certain times, and usually only after a bit of negotiation. The caretaker will sell you a Rs 100 ticket for each gompa that you visit. The monks prohibit taking photographs inside the gompas in an effort to limit interest in the statues and paintings among collectors of stolen art. The red [Thubchen Gompa] is near the centre of the city, a massive assembly hall supported by huge wooden columns and within which there are many painted frescoes. There are statues of the deities Sakyamuni surrounded by Chenrisig (Avalokitesvara), Vaisravana (the god of wealth) and Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava). The othertemples are within the monastic quarter, which is the domain of several large growling Tibetan mastiffs. Secure the services of a monk before you even attempt to enter this part of the city.

    Despite the apparent squalor of Lo Manthang, the city is prosperous and maintains a strong sense of community. Though the people call themselves Lobas (people from Lo) they are very much Tibetan and practice a sophisticated culture and economy. Before trade with Tibet was disrupted, all of the salt and wool trade on the Kali Gandaki passed through Lo Manthang, and this brought a sizeable amount of money to the city. Wealth is now primarily measured in land, horses and social standing, though many Lobas travel south to India during the winter.

    The raja's palace is an imposing four-storey building in the centre of the city. It is the home of the present raja, Jigme Parbal Bista, and the queen, or rani, who is from an aristocratic family of Lhasa. The raja is an active horseman and keeps a stable of the best horses in Lo. He also breeds Lhasa apso dogs and several monstrous Tibetan mastiffs that can be heard barking angrily in the 2nd storey of the palace. Though his duties are largely ceremonial, he is respected by the people and consulted about many issues by villagers throughout Lo.

    The police do not allow trekkers to travel north of the Lo Manthang river unless they have the longer 13day, USD $910 trekking permit. There are two valleys above Lo Manthang. In the western valley are Tingkhar, the site of the raja's summer palace, Kimling, Phuwa and Namgyal Gompa ('the monastery of victory'). Namgyal, situated in a spectacular setting atop a desolate ridge, is of the Gelupga tradition and is the newest and most active gompa in Lo.

    Day 11: Lo Manthang to Drakmar, 5 - 6-1/2 hours, 710m ascent, 730m descent There is an alternative return route and it is possible to visit two villages that you did not see on the trek northwards. Instead of following the trail south to Charang, turn on an indistinct trail to Lo Gekar. This is not a main trading route and the area is criss- crossed with herders' trails. The trail climbs steadily to a cairn on a pass at 3970m, offering a last glimpse of Lo Manthang. The trail climbs to a ridge at 4070m where a large cairn marks a pass into a side valley. Climb to the head of this valley and cross the Chogo La at 4285m, the highest point on the trek. The trail traverses above a big grassy valley, crosses a ridge at 4240m, then makes a long rough descent in a gully beside a stream to a large chorten in a grassy valley at 4000m. The trail makes a short, steep descent to a wooden bridge across the Charang Khola, then climbs past aa unpainted stone chorten and across a swampy meadow to Lo Gekar. (which means 'pure virtue of Lo'). Ghar Gompa is a small monastery in a grove of large trees.and is built like a house with small separate rooms. The gompa is decorated with paintings and statues and several large prayer wheels. The primary figures are Guru Rimpoche and his two consorts placed above a brass altar inside a dark alcove and in another alcove is a large statue of the protective deity Palden Lhamo on a horse. The real treasure of Ghar Gompa is the hundreds of painted carved stones in wooden frames displayed on the walls of the main chapel. Beyond Ghar, climb to a ridge, then across a valley to a cairn and a pass at 4140m. The route crosses some alpine meadows to a crest, then drops down a steep eroded gully overshadowed by red rock towers to the upper part of Drakmar, ('red crag'). A large stream meanders through this village, making this a particularly pretty valley with several pleasant grassy campsites at 3790m. Most of the surrounding hills are pastel shades of grey and yellow, but a huge, red, fluted cliff provides a dramatic contrast. Watch for blue sheep among the extensive cave system in the cliffs above.

    Day 12: Drakmar to Shyangmochen, 5 - 6 hours, 645m ascent, 671m descent The trail descends alongside a stream passing the stone walls and fields of the extensive village of Drakmar, then climbs to a ridge at 3710m. It then descends to another stream and makes a short climb to the upper part of Ghemi. Descend to the lower part of Ghemi, then follow the upward route, climbing to a cairn on the Ghemi La and contouring upwards to the Nyi La. Descend steeply into the Geling Valley. The trail then makes a long traverse past a mani wall to a steep set of switchbacks down a stream-filled rocky canyon The trail climbs to a huge painted chorten before rejoining the Geling trail near the ridge, just below the Shyangmochen La. Cross the pass and descend to camp at Shyangmochen.

    Day 13: Samar to Chhuksang, 6 - 7 hours, 290m ascent, 1100m descent Retrace the upward trail through Yamdo and Bhena to Samar and descend through Chele to the Kali Gandaki. Trek downstream to Chhuksang.

    Day 14: Chhuksang to Kagbeni, 3 ½ - 4 ½ hours, 70m descent Trek back to Kagbeni.

    Alternative Route from Lo Manthang to Kagbeni:

    There is another route down the eastern side of the Kali Gandaki Valley through Tange and Tetang to Muktinath. These villages are isolated and not frequented by travellers of any kind. Most do not have even basic facilities for porters and are not familiar with coping with the demands of tourists. Villages are far apart and there is no shelter, except possibly caves, between them. If you attempt this route, be prepared for at least one long 10-hour (30+ km) day. There is no water and no vegetation between the few villages on this rarely travelled route.

    Day 15-16: I’ve added two margin days in the event that the group wants to linger at one or more locations.

    Day 17: Continue on to Jomsom. End of trek. Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara. Connect with flight on to Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel Malla. Overnight hotel on bed & breakfast basis .

    Day 18: Reserve day in Kathmandu. This reserve day is necessary in the event the Jomsom flight does not operate on the previous day.

    Day 19: Transfer from hotel to airport. Depart Kathmandu. End Ibex services All Nepal ground transfers per itinerary; hotels in Kathmandu and Pokhara per itinerary on B&B basis,non-personal camping equipment, all meals on trek, all leadership and all group trek expenses.

    COST 2 or more persons, 19-Day KTM/ KTM itinerary Nepal Government Permit Fee for 10-day trek into Mustang Single supplement Airfare KTM/ Pokhara/ Jomsom roundtrip as of 01 Feb 08 $2794 USD pp $700 USD pp $400 USD pp $346 USD pp
    COST INCLUDES

    DOES NOT INCLUDE

    international and domestic flights; Nepal Government Restricted Area Permit Fee, accommodations and expenses enroute to/from Nepal, items of a personal nature, including sleeping bag, drinks, immunizations, etc., tips to local staff; meals other than breakfast in Kathmandu, additional nights at the beginning or end of trip, airport departure taxes and visa charges.

    For 2008 a Government Liaison Officer is no longer required.

    Minimum group size 2-persons

    Equipment list and trip bulletin will be sent upon receipt of deposit and completed Trip Application.